Rhys Turner’s Luscious New Collection
Rhys Turner is an architect of the the minutiae. He has spent the past 20 years developing his craft, specialising in modernist, pared-back pieces that stand the test of time. We chat to Rhys about how this new collection came to life.
What’s been your inspiration of late?
My work is almost always influenced by the gemstones I come across. I am constantly on the lookout for different stones whether it’s the cut, shape or colour that stands out. I look for the stones that are jaw-dropping to everyone in the room – and also the beautifully subtle stones that require a keen eye and slow observation.
I don’t think its a secret that I have an affinity with Australian sapphires in particular – they are a constant source of inspiration as they come in such a variety of colours. In particular, parti sapphires that are multi-coloured, making them really unique. Over the last 10 years, I have developed great relationships with Australian sapphire suppliers, often the people digging them out of the ground or cutting the stones themselves; so they are direct from the source. I find working with people this way creates more of a connection, and as a result each ring has a beautiful story. While sapphires are absolutely incredible, I try not to get completely absorbed by them, so you will always see other gems and diamonds sneak into my work.
When I approach a design, I have a ‘less is more’ philosophy and this is what I’ve aimed for with this collection. Each piece is entirely handmade so I like to be able to show a clear distinction between the metal and the stone, showcasing the two elements so that they can be appreciated together, yet separate at the same time. The gemstones provide me with a ‘brief’ in a sense – and I get to make the display.
What do you look for in the gemstones you choose?
The most important thing for me is for the stone to have minimal or no inclusions – impurities that can look like dust or smudges – though sometimes these inclusions can be beautiful so it’s not a deal-breaker. From there it is definitely the cut and colour of the stone. Both of these elements need to work together to be a great stone. I’ve found the more I research and see different sapphires, diamonds, spinels, etc. the more I have developed my own appreciation and understanding of what I like and look out for. I think the people who are drawn to my work are generally people who like what I like – that is why I think it is so important to be yourself.
Are there any special stories about where you found these stones?
The Australian sapphires are always special to me, they are truly one of a kind. For example, the 3.4ct yellow sapphire – I may come across something similar in time, but there will never be one the same. As the majority of my sapphires originate from the Rubyvale gemfields in Queensland, I find it is really a special thing that the ring is completely local from beginning to end, and I think this has become more important to people in more recent times.
Which piece is your favourite and why?
Picking a favourite is like choosing your favourite child – you can definitely have one but you would never say it.
From a makers perspective, the Pear Halo ring was real challenge. Getting the stone positioned so there is an equal space around it was very tricky, but I’m stoked with the result. The sapphire is also particularly amazing.
From a gemstone point of view, I really like how the Pixel Fallingwater ring turned out. As the ring moves the sapphire creates a pixelated waterfall effect which is what I hoped for with this design. It’s one piece where the design idea came before I found the right stone.
From a design perspective – I’m really happy to do some earrings for this collection. It’s something I just haven’t had time to pursue more until now but there are there is so much potential and freedom in designing something that is not on the hand.
What’s next?
I have a few ideas already up my sleeve. I feel like I have more ideas than time at the moment which is a nice place to be. Being out of my comfort zones seems to work better for me when it comes to new work, so I will be looking to go in 2 completely different directions. One direction is to work on more sculptural/architectural designs that focus more on the making aspect and less about using gemstones. The other is to use multiple stones together while still maintaining a minimal approach. Ultimately I think it’s important to always be setting yourself a challenge.
What advice you would give your 18 year old self?
Keep going – you’ll make it.
It took me a long time to find my voice as a designer and artist, it definitely didn’t come natural to me in the beginning. There were a lot more failures than successes, which lead me to where I am now. To be able to make work I can call my own is really special to me.
